10-Hydroxystearic Acid
INCI: 10-HYDROXYSTEARIC ACID
A naturally-derived fatty acid that supports skin structure and resilience
Best For Skin Types
All, Mature, Dry
Addresses
Usage Frequency
Daily
What Is 10-Hydroxystearic Acid?
10-Hydroxystearic acid (10-HSA) is a mono-hydroxylated fatty acid derived from oleic acid, a naturally occurring component of plant and animal oils. It is produced through a biochemical process using enzymes and belongs to the class of skin-conditioning agents.
In skincare formulations, 10-HSA functions as both a skin conditioner and protectant. It works at a cellular level to influence how skin cells communicate and support the structural proteins that keep skin firm and resilient.
How It Works
10-HSA activates a cellular receptor called peroxisomal proliferator-activated receptor alpha (PPARα). This activation prompts skin fibroblasts — the cells responsible for producing collagen — to increase their output of structural proteins. By supporting collagen synthesis, it helps maintain the skin's framework and firmness.
Additionally, 10-HSA appears to modulate the skin's response to sun damage by reducing markers of UV-induced cellular stress, though this effect is still being characterised in human studies.
Clinical Evidence & References
In-vitro and ex-vivo studies show that 10-HSA is a potent activator of PPARα and stimulates collagen production in human dermal fibroblasts. Early clinical trials using full-face application have indicated improvements in the appearance of age spots and pore prominence, though these findings would benefit from larger, longer-term confirmation.
The ingredient's ability to mitigate UVB-induced skin damage has been demonstrated in laboratory settings, but translation to real-world sun protection in humans requires further investigation. Current evidence is encouraging but not yet definitive, and more research is needed to establish optimal concentrations and long-term efficacy.
How to Use
10-HSA is typically incorporated into serums, moisturisers and targeted treatments. It can be used daily as part of a regular skincare routine. It is compatible with many other active ingredients, including retinoids, which may offer complementary benefits when used together. Apply to clean skin as directed by individual product instructions.
Safety & Precautions
Regulatory information
Standardised cosmetic-ingredient identifiers used by regulators.
Show identifiers
- INCI Name
- 10-HYDROXYSTEARIC ACID
- Function
- Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting
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