3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
INCI: ethyl ascorbic acid
Also known as: Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Vitamin C, L-Ascorbic Acid, Pure Vitamin C
A more stable derivative of pure vitamin C Capable of helping fade dark spots
At a glance
Best For Skin Types
All skin types
Usage Frequency
As directed on product packaging
EWG Safety Score
What Is 3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid?
3-O ethyl ascorbic acid is a stable, water- and oil-soluble derivative of pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that offers all of the primary benefits vitamin C is known for, such as brightening, wrinkle reduction, visible firming (through supporting healthy collagen levels), fading hyperpigmentation to restore a more even skin tone and offsetting numerous triggers of environmental damage.
As a modified and more stable version of pure vitamin C, 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid must be converted to vitamin C within skin by sodium-dependent proteins. This process within skin’s surface layers helps ensure skin benefits.
Due to the conversion to pure vitamin C being a slower process, 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid is considered a more tolerable form of vitamin C. However, like pure vitamin C, the ethyl form requires an acidic pH range (4–5.5) for optimum stability. This pH range is higher than what ascorbic acid needs for ideal stability, making 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid an intriguing alternative if your skin hasn’t been able to tolerate higher-strength (10% and up) vitamin C (ascorbic acid) products.
Research has shown which non-irritating ingredients aid the penetration of this ingredient into skin’s surface, and they include pentylene glycol, glycerin, 1,2 hexanediol, diisostearyl malate and various propylene glycol derivatives, although this list is not exhaustive.
Usage levels of 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid in skin care typically fall between 0.5–5%. Due to its stability, lesser amounts are needed compared with pure vitamin C. Levels above 5% may also be used, depending on desired benefits. Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples.
L-ascorbic acid is the chemical name for pure vitamin C, the same form found in citrus fruits, bell peppers, and strawberries. Vitamin C is essential to proper nutrition and offers far more than immune support. When applied topically, it functions as an antioxidant that protects skin from free radical damage generated by sun exposure and environmental factors that lead to signs of ageing. Pure vitamin C helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines by restoring elasticity and firmness lost through the ageing process.
Benefits for Your Skin
How It Works
Clinical Evidence & References
Published Research
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3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid: A derivative of L-Ascorbic Acid with improved stability International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2015
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Vitamin C derivatives in cosmetic formulations Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2019
How widely it's used
Regulatory information
Standardised cosmetic-ingredient identifiers used by regulators.
Show identifiers
- INCI Name
- 3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID
- Function
- Skin Conditioning
Related Ingredients
(Licorice/Reynoutria Japonica) Root/Stem Extract
Plant extract with antioxidant properties to help protect skin from environmental stress
3-Ethylhexylglyceryl Ascorbate
A stabilised vitamin C derivative that works as an antioxidant and humectant
3-Glyceryl Ascorbate
A stabilised form of vitamin C that works as an antioxidant and hydrating agent
4-Butylresorcinol
A tyrosinase inhibitor that works to reduce melanin production at the source
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