Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline

Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is an oil-soluble version of hydroxyproline, which is the primary amino acid in collagen. Making it oil-soluble improves penetration into skin and lips, where it works to signal skin from the uppermost layers to repair its supportive elements, leading to fewer visible lines and wrinkles. In essence, hydroxyproline is considered a signal peptide.

This ingredient works best when paired with oils or glycols since both increase its affinity for skin. Along with supporting skin’s collagen, it also offsets collagen-degrading enzymes known as matrix metalloproteinases. When these enzymes proliferate unchecked, collagen is weakened, leading to signs of sagging and thinning lips.

The recommended usage level of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is 0.1-2%; clinical studies from suppliers have shown measurable improvement of wrinkle depth when used at 0.5%.

Palmitic acid is considered safe for skin, as are proline and hydroxyproline since the latter two are found naturally in skin and its collagen.