Exfoliants

Microcrystalline Wax

Also known as: Hydrogenated Microcrystalline Wax

Petroleum-derived wax with a crystalline structure | Gummy texture gives it great versatility in cosmetics

Addresses

Dehydration

What Is Microcrystalline Wax?

Microcrystalline wax is a petroleum-derived ingredient used for its occlusive, binding and texture-enhancing properties. Although mineral-derived, the processing and purification this wax goes through prior to use in cosmetics makes the result synthetic. Its hydrocarbons (molecules only consisting of hydrogen and carbon) are arranged in a fine crystalline structure, which is where this ingredient gets a portion of its name.

Microcrystalline wax’s soft, gummy nature (it’s more flexible than paraffin) gives it high versatility in all kinds of cosmetics, from hairstyling products to moisturizers, lip balms and more. Despite its texture, this wax is still fairly solid and is sometimes used in cosmetics to create semi-solid to solid texture—think hair pomades and thick lip balms.

Although microcrystalline wax has a low oil content, it can help bind other oils as well as solvents when blended in cosmetics, creating improved and consistent product textures. It’s typically supplied in slab form but may also be blended with other emollients and waxes supplied in liquid form.

Use levels of microcrystalline wax in cosmetics was not available as this entry was being written. It is considered safe and non-toxic as used in cosmetics, including for products meant for application to lips. Of note, microcrystalline wax is a food-grade ingredient used to coat various fruits, chewing gum, dental floss and even medications.

Benefits for Your Skin

Clinical Evidence & References

Published Research

  • OCL, April 2022, pages 1–16 [https://www.ocl-journal.org/articles/ocl/full_html/2022/01/ocl210097/ocl210097.html]
  • International Journal of Cosmetic Science, April 2020, pages 146–155 [https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/ics.12597]
  • Journal of The European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, October 2019, pages 5–14 [https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jdv.15946]
  • Bundesinstitut Risikobewertung, February 2018, pages 1–27 [https://www.bfr.bund.de/cm/349/highly-refined-mineral-oils-in-cosmetics-health-risks-are-not-to-be-expected-according-to-current-knowledge.pdf]
  • Toxicology Letters, October 2017, pages 70–78 [https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378427417311542]
  • International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2011, pages 263–268 [https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00624.x]

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