Retinoids

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Often used to coat mineral sunscreen active ingredients to help them disperse evenly | Other roles in skin care include emulsion stabilizer, film-former, and texture-enhancing thickener

At a glance

May feed Fungal Acne

Addresses

Used to coat mineral sunscreen active ingredients, Emulsion stabilizer, Film-former, Texture-enhancing thickener

What Is Polyhydroxystearic Acid?

Polyhydroxystearic acid plays various roles in cosmetic formulas, including functioning as a suspending agent, emulsion stabilizer, film-former, and texture-enhancing thickener. This plant-derived or synthetic ingredient is often used to coat mineral sunscreen actives to help them disperse evenly. Suppliers of polyhydroxystearic acid also claim that it helps increase UV absorption and can reduce the white cast that titanium dioxide and zinc oxide leave behind.

In makeup, polyhydroxystearic acid helps pigments distribute more cohesively. In lotions and creams, it adds emolliency. As a raw material, polyhydroxystearic acid is described as a soft, pliable wax that is light tan to brown in color, derived from castor oil.

Clinical Evidence & References

Published Research

  • Making Cosmetics, Accessed October 2021, ePublication [https://www.makingcosmetics.com/WAX-PHSA-01.html?lang=en_US]
  • Cosmetics Business, April 2016, ePublication [https://cosmeticsbusiness.com/what-s-new-in-sun-care-filters-and-ingredients--117682]

How widely it's used

3.4%
of skincare products contain this ingredient .
Most common in: Sunscreens

Regulatory information

Standardised cosmetic-ingredient identifiers used by regulators.

Show identifiers
INCI Name
POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID
EC Number
- / -
Function
Emulsifying

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