Polysorbate 80
Also known as: Polysorbates
Surfactant composed of fatty acids (primarily oleic acid) | Often included in skin care formulations as an emulsifying or solubilizing agent
Addresses
EWG Safety Score
What Is Polysorbate 80?
Polysorbate 80 is a surfactant (cleansing agent) composed of fatty acids—primarily oleic acid, but others such as palmitic or linoleic acid may also be present. It is often included in skin care formulations as an emulsifying or solubilizing agent and can help create a more aesthetically pleasing texture. Research shows it also enhances the penetration of other key ingredients such as antioxidants. In its raw material form, polysorbate 80 has a viscous oily liquid appearance and can vary in color from yellow to amber. In the 2015 Cosmetic Ingredient Review safety assessment, polysorbate 80 was reported to be found in up to 18.1% concentration in rinse-off cosmetic products and 11.9% concentration in leave-on formulations. It was deemed safe in the current practices of use and concentrations. That same report noted that polysorbate 80 was found to be non-irritating to skin at a 100% concentration in a clinical test setting. The U.S. FDA also classifies polysorbate 80 as a safe food additive.
Benefits for Your Skin
Clinical Evidence & References
Published Research
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U.S. Food & Drug Administration, Code of Federal Regulations, April 2020, ePublication [https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.840]
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Cosmetic Ingredient Review, July 2015, pages 1-48 [https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/PSorba_062015_FR_0.pdf]
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Journal of Chromatographic Science, August 2012, pages 598–607 [https://academic.oup.com/chromsci/article/50/7/598/298661?login=true]
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Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research, July 2011, pages 281-288 [https://www.researchgate.net/publication/260210904_Penetration_Enhancing_Effect_of_Polysorbate_20_and_80_on_the_In_Vitro_Percutaneous_Absorption_of_LAscorbic_Acid]
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