Retinyl Linoleate

Retinyl linoleate is an oil-soluble member of the retinoid family (so it’s considered a vitamin A derivative). It functions as a skin-conditioning ingredient that works to combat visible signs of aging, encourage an even tone and promote healthy skin through increased cell turnover.

Chemically, it’s an ester of retinol and linoleic acid, an unsaturated omega-6 fatty acid, which makes it a milder, gentler retinoid that helps promote hydration. As such, it’s less potent than many of its retinoid counterparts.

As a retinoid, it coaches skin to act like it did when it was younger, which in turn results in fewer visible wrinkles and fine lines and promotes brightness, as well as a perceived increase in skin firmness. Beyond this, retinyl linoleate also functions as an antioxidant, where it helps safeguard skin against pro-aging and pro-damaging external aggressors, like UV rays and pollution.

Although a member of the retinoid family, this vitamin A derivative isn’t as effective as other retinoids, like retinal (AKA retinaldehyde). This is because retinyl linoleate requires more conversions (three, to be exact) to become retinoic acid, the form of vitamin A that skin “accepts” and can utilize. The more conversions a retinoid requires to become retinoic acid, the less potent, but gentler, it becomes.

Retinoids are a group of well-researched ingredients, however, retinyl linoleate lacks abundant, peer-reviewed research as an individual ingredient. For best results, look for this derivative paired with retinol-like ingredients such as bakuchiol or skin-firming peptides.

Suppliers of this ingredient relay that it’s a yellow-to-brown liquid as a raw material and is more stable than retinol. In 2013, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel reported that retinyl linoleate was used in percentages between 0.01%-0.3%.